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A Comprehensive Guide to the Matterhorn’s Major Climbing Routes
From the seasoned expert to the ambitious adventurer, the majestic Matterhorn beckons climbers with its varied routes, each weaving a unique journey up the formidable Swiss peak. This comprehensive guide delves into the main routes to the Matterhorn’s summit, offering a vital roadmap for those daring to conquer this legendary mountain.
Italian alpinist Hervé Barmasse in 2011 making the first ascent of a new 700m route up the South Face of Picco Muzio, Matterhorn. Although this is by no means a standard route, it provides a sense of the quality of the rock. Damiano Levati
Perched between Switzerland and Italy, the Matterhorn, an emblem of the Swiss Alps, is a visual spectacle that has long held a magnetic allure for climbers. Its distinctive pyramid-like structure, rising an impressive 4,478 meters above sea level, provides a formidable challenge. The peak, an embodiment of unyielding resolve against the elements, has an enduring legacy that extends beyond the realm of mountaineering, captivating the imagination of adventurers, poets, and artists alike.
Over the centuries, this towering giant has beckoned climbers from around the globe, all drawn by the exhilaration of surmounting its peaks and the reward of panoramic vistas that are truly a sight to behold. Its slopes offer a unique tapestry of routes, each with its idiosyncratic challenges and victories. These paths range from relatively moderate ascents to technically demanding climbs, attracting a spectrum of climbers – from seasoned professionals to ardent enthusiasts.
Whether climbers approach from the Swiss town of Zermatt or the Italian hamlet of Breuil-Cervinia, the Matterhorn presents a multitude of unique paths towards its summit. Each route possesses its own unique narrative, a captivating tale of the trials and tribulations that climbers must navigate, painting a vivid picture of the dance between human ambition and the raw, untamed beauty of nature.
This guide will outline the main routes to the Matterhorn’s summit. It will delve into the intricacies of each trail, charting the starting points, the expected times of ascent, and the technical challenges posed. This roadmap to the peak of the Matterhorn is not merely a guide but an invitation to step into the exhilarating world of high-altitude mountaineering and experience the captivating allure of this mountain’s mighty stature.
The Matterhorn is an extremely challenging mountain and each route demands a significant level of climbing skill and experience. Guides can help with safety, direction, and technical assistance, but climbers must still have a high level of fitness and some level of technical ability to attempt any route on the Matterhorn.
However, not all routes are typically guided. Some are too challenging or dangerous to be undertaken except by extremely experienced climbers, often professionals.
Hörnli Ridge
(Northeast Ridge)
Hörnli Hut with the Matterhorn’s Hörnli Ridge “standard” route emerging above. The Furggen Ridge is the ridge to the left. Tiia Monto
First Ascent: 1865
Starting Point: Hörnli Hut
Approximate Time of Ascent: 4-5 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Guided: Yes, this is the most commonly guided route on the Matterhorn. It’s considered the “standard” route, and many guides offer services for this climb. Climbers will need a good level of fitness and some prior rock and ice climbing experience.
The Matterhorn’s summit and Hörnli Ridge dwarfing the barely discernible Solvay Hut (horizontal rectangle just left of the ridge line near the bottom). Whgler/Wikimedia
Etched into the annals of mountaineering history as the path Edward Whymper and his team took during the first successful ascent in 1865, the Hörnli Ridge remains by far the most trodden path to the Matterhorn’s summit. Its continued popularity has earned it the moniker of the mountain’s “normal route,” though the journey is anything but ordinary.
The starting point for this quest is the Hörnli Hut, perched at an altitude of 3,260 meters and accessible from the Swiss village of Zermatt. This rustic refuge, serving as a base camp, provides a temporary haven for climbers to rest and prepare before embarking on the arduous journey towards the summit.
The ascent, typically taking between four and five hours from the Hörnli Hut, is a physically demanding trek that requires climbers to have a good level of fitness and considerable experience in both rock and ice climbing. Along this path, climbers encounter a series of intricate rock ridges and ledges, weaving a winding trail up the northeast face of the Matterhorn.
While rated as moderately difficult, the Hörnli Ridge is deceptive in its challenges. Despite the heavy footfall it receives, climbers should not underestimate the risks. The trail is interspersed with steep rock faces and exposed sections, demanding surefootedness, technical skill, and steadfast composure.
In the high-altitude arena of the Matterhorn, weather conditions can shift unpredictably, adding a further layer of complexity to the journey. Seasoned climbers advise attempting the ascent in the summer months, when conditions are comparatively more favorable.
Despite its challenges, the Hörnli Ridge offers climbers the reward of awe-inspiring views and the thrill of following in the pioneering footsteps of Whymper’s team. Ascending this trail, one can’t help but feel a profound connection to the rich tapestry of mountaineering history that is intertwined with the Matterhorn’s formidable slopes.
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Pros of Climbing the Hörnli Ridge
Historical Significance: The Hörnli Ridge holds a distinct place in mountaineering history as the route of the first successful ascent of the Matterhorn. This lends a sense of nostalgia and historical connection that is unique to this route.
Accessibility: The Hörnli Ridge is widely considered the “normal route” to the Matterhorn’s summit. It is more accessible than other paths, making it a good choice for climbers who have a solid foundation in rock and ice climbing but are perhaps less experienced in more extreme mountaineering.
Scenic Beauty: The Hörnli Ridge route provides climbers with stunning, panoramic views of the Swiss Alps. This can make the challenging climb a truly rewarding experience.
Hörnli Hut: The conveniently located Hörnli Hut provides climbers with a place to rest and acclimatize before the ascent. This refuge can be crucial in preparing for the demands of the climb and mitigating the effects of altitude sickness.
Cons of Climbing the Hörnli Ridge
Popularity: The Hörnli Ridge’s fame means that it often gets crowded, particularly during the peak summer months. This can detract from the experience and could potentially pose safety concerns due to the number of climbers on the route.
Deceptive Difficulty: Despite its classification as a moderate route, the Hörnli Ridge can be deceptive in its challenges. The path features steep rock faces and exposed sections that require technical skill, physical fitness, and mental fortitude.
Unpredictable Weather: Like all high-altitude climbs, the weather on the Hörnli Ridge can be unpredictable and change rapidly. This can present additional challenges and risks to climbers, making preparation and the ability to react to changing conditions critical.
Physical Demands: The Hörnli Ridge is a physically demanding route. Its combination of rock ridges, ledges, and high altitude can test even the most fit and experienced climbers, demanding significant preparation and training.
Lion Ridge
(Italian Ridge or Southwest Ridge)
High on the Matterhorn’s Lion Ridge looking down to the western shoulder, Pic Tyndall. Flav
First Ascent: 1867
Starting Point: Carrel Hut
Approximate Time of Ascent: 6-8 hours
Difficulty: Hard
Guided: Yes, it is also possible to find guides who offer services for this route. However, it’s more challenging than the Hörnli Ridge, so climbers will need to have excellent rock climbing skills and a high level of fitness.
Climbers on the Matterhorn’s summit as photographed from the “Italian Summit” at the top of the Lion Ridge. Knapik
In the high-stakes race to the Matterhorn’s summit in 1865, the Italian mountaineer Jean-Antoine Carrel and his team forged a trail along the Lion Ridge. Known also as the Italian Ridge or Southwest Ridge, this route from the Italian side of the Matterhorn is a path that tests the mettle of even the most seasoned climbers, and is widely considered more technically challenging than the Hörnli Ridge.
The journey begins from the Carrel Hut, a stone refuge nestled at an altitude of 3,830 meters, making it one of the highest huts in the Alps. Named in honor of Jean-Antoine Carrel, the hut serves as a vital staging point for those embarking on the ascent via the Lion Ridge.
From the Carrel Hut, the estimated time to the summit varies between 6 to 8 hours, although the duration can be influenced by various factors including weather conditions and the climbers’ level of experience and fitness. This challenging route demands excellent rock-climbing skills, physical stamina, and a tolerance for exposure, as it includes a nerve-wracking traverse of a particularly narrow and exposed ridge.
The Lion Ridge route is laced with sections of difficult rock climbing, marked by exposed ridges and steep inclines. It’s a formidable stretch of mountain terrain that commands respect and requires meticulous preparation. The trail weaves a complex path up the southwest face of the Matterhorn, culminating in a steep and difficult final section known as the “Cravatte,” a ridge crest that must be carefully navigated before reaching the summit.
Despite the challenges and perils of the Lion Ridge, climbers who undertake this ascent are rewarded with breath-taking panoramas of the Italian Alps and the satisfaction of overcoming one of the most challenging routes up the iconic Matterhorn.
For all its daunting reputation, the Lion Ridge holds a certain allure for climbers seeking a less crowded, albeit more demanding, path to the Matterhorn’s summit. Its historical significance and the sheer audacity of its trailblazing path make it a route imbued with mountaineering lore and allure.
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Pros of Climbing the Lion Ridge
Historical Significance: As the original path carved by the renowned mountaineer Jean-Antoine Carrel, the Lion Ridge holds a significant place in mountaineering history. Climbers choosing this route have the opportunity to follow in the footsteps of this historical trailblazer.
Less Crowded: Due to its technical difficulty, the Lion Ridge tends to be less crowded than the more accessible Hörnli Ridge. This can result in a more solitary and potentially more rewarding experience for climbers.
Challenging Ascent: For experienced climbers seeking a challenge, the Lion Ridge delivers. Its complex path and demanding terrain can make for an adventurous and thrilling climb.
Breathtaking Views: Climbers tackling the Lion Ridge are rewarded with spectacular views of the Italian Alps, adding to the overall experience of the ascent.
Carrel Hut: The Carrel Hut serves as a high-altitude haven for climbers, offering a restful spot to prepare for the demanding journey ahead.
Cons of Climbing the Lion Ridge
Technical Difficulty: The Lion Ridge is one of the more challenging routes to the Matterhorn’s summit. It requires excellent rock climbing skills, significant physical endurance, and a strong tolerance for exposure.
Longer Ascent Time: With an approximate time of ascent between 6 to 8 hours from the Carrel Hut, the Lion Ridge generally requires a longer climb than the Hörnli Ridge. This can add to the physical and mental demands of the journey.
Nerve-Wracking Traverse: One section of the route, known as the “Cravatte,” is a particularly narrow and exposed ridge that can be intimidating, even to experienced climbers. This part of the ascent requires careful navigation and steady nerves.
Dependent on Weather: Like any high-altitude climbing, the ascent up the Lion Ridge can be heavily influenced by weather conditions. Unpredictable changes can increase the difficulty of the climb and pose potential safety risks.
Demands Meticulous Preparation: The Lion Ridge demands comprehensive preparation, from physical training and technical skills to route knowledge and equipment planning. Its difficulty level is not to be underestimated.
Zmutt Ridge
(West Ridge)
Zmutt ridge and north face of the Matterhorn (left), near 3895m. Simon Steinberger
First Ascent: 1879
Starting Point: Schönbiel Hut
Approximate Time of Ascent: 8-10 hours
Difficulty: Very Hard
Guided: Generally, no. This route is long and technically challenging, requiring complex navigation and extended sections of difficult rock climbing. It’s typically only attempted by highly experienced climbers, often climbing independently.
Etched along the Matterhorn’s western flank, the Zmutt Ridge presents one of the most arduous, yet rewarding ascents up the iconic mountain. This ridge route is the road less traveled, and for good reason: its path requires complex navigation, and its long stretches of technical rock climbing make it a formidable challenge, even for the most experienced climbers.
The journey begins at the Schönbiel Hut, a rustic mountain refuge nestled on a rocky promontory with commanding views of the Matterhorn. This hut serves as a base camp from which climbers launch their ambitious bid for the summit via the Zmutt Ridge. The route from the hut to the summit is a demanding trek, often taking between 8 to 10 hours to complete, depending on the climbers’ speed, conditions on the mountain, and weather.
From the Schönbiel Hut, climbers traverse the Zmutt Glacier before beginning the ascent along the ridge proper. The climb involves intricate route-finding through a maze of ledges, gullies, and chimneys, demanding a strong head for heights, good route-finding skills, and technical rock-climbing ability.
Unlike the more popular Hörnli and Lion Ridges, the Zmutt Ridge is often less crowded, a detail that can provide a sense of solitude amid the grandeur of the high Alps. However, this solitude comes at a cost. The ridge is more remote, and a rapid descent in the case of sudden changes in weather or an emergency is more difficult.
Despite the Zmutt Ridge’s severity, or perhaps because of it, the route holds a unique appeal for experienced climbers. The mix of challenging climbing, complex navigation, and stunning Alpine vistas provides a thrilling experience that places climbers in the footsteps of the mountaineering pioneers who first dared to scale the Matterhorn’s vertiginous heights. The Zmutt Ridge does not simply offer an ascent to the Matterhorn’s summit; it offers a venture into the heart of Alpine mountaineering’s adventurous spirit.
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Furggen Ridge
(Southeast Ridge)
The south and east (right facing) faces of the Matterhorn. The Hörnli Ridge is the right skyline. The Lion Ridge is the left skyline. The Furggen Ridge is the left ridge of the east face. Justin Clements
First Ascent: 1911
Starting Point: Bivacco Bossi Volante
Approximate Time of Ascent: 8-10 hours
Difficulty: Very Hard
Guided: Generally, no. This is the most difficult route on the Matterhorn and is typically only attempted by highly skilled, professional climbers. The technical rock climbing required, along with the potentially treacherous conditions, make this route not suitable for guiding.
Often regarded as the Matterhorn’s most formidable pathway, the Furggen Ridge scales the mountain’s southeastern side. Reserved solely for climbers possessing a wealth of skill and a spirit braced for high-stakes adventure, this route’s challenges extend beyond the capabilities of most mountaineers. It demands a rare blend of technical rock climbing ability, adept risk-assessment, and extensive experience in alpine terrain.
The ascent begins at the Bivacco Bossi Volante, a modest and utilitarian high-altitude bivouac shelter, perched precariously on the Matterhorn’s steep slopes. Named after the Italian mountaineer and mountain guide Felice “Volante” Bossi, the shelter serves as the launching pad for those daring enough to attempt this formidable ascent.
The journey from the Bivacco Bossi Volante to the summit is often a grueling 8 to 10-hour endeavor. Climbers must negotiate a series of knife-edge ridges, intricate rock formations, and precarious ice fields, all while contending with the unpredictable weather that characterizes the high Alps. The route’s complexity not only requires physical prowess and technical climbing skills, but it also demands a keen mountain sense and the ability to navigate with precision in a challenging environment.
The ascent along the Furggen Ridge is not just a climb, but a calculated dance with gravity, where every step, every hold, and every decision could mean the difference between success and disaster. Here, more than on any other route on the Matterhorn, climbers face the raw essence of the mountain’s treacherous beauty.
Due to its extreme difficulty and exposure to objective dangers, this route is less frequented than others. However, for the elite mountaineers who are well-versed in the capricious whims of high-altitude alpinism, the Furggen Ridge offers a climb of unmatched difficulty and raw alpine purity. It is an unparalleled test of skill, grit, and determination, presenting a mountaineering challenge that is as much a mental trial as it is a physical one.
Despite its rigorous demands and inherent dangers, the Furggen Ridge lures experienced climbers with its intense challenge and the promise of a rare, solitary communion with one of the world’s most renowned mountains. This route remains a testament to the Matterhorn’s enduring status as a symbol of ultimate alpine conquest.
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North Face
The Matterhorn’s North Face. The Hörnli Ridge is the left skyline and the Zmutt Ridge is the right skyline (with the Lion Ridge behind). Duo
First Ascent: 1931
Starting Point: Hörnli Hut
Approximate Time of Ascent: 10-12 hours
Difficulty: Extremely Hard
Guided: Generally, no. The North Face is extremely challenging. It requires expertise in rock and ice climbing and demands exceptional endurance and resilience. This route is typically reserved for very experienced climbers, often professionals.
Etched into the lore of alpinism, the North Face of the Matterhorn is an arena reserved for mountaineers of the highest caliber. This formidable route stands as one of the six legendary north faces of the Alps, often referred to as “the six great problems of the Alps” – a list that includes other formidable mountains such as the Grandes Jorasses and the Eiger.
The North Face’s reputation is no hyperbole. Its imposing verticality and the relentless steepness of its ice-smothered rock face place it among the most formidable challenges in the climbing world. The route’s difficulty is further amplified by the notoriously unpredictable weather conditions and frequent rockfalls, which can transform the route into a lethal gauntlet.
Starting from the Hörnli Hut, climbers embarking on this route need to steel themselves for a grueling 10 to 12-hour climb to the summit, often requiring a bivouac during the ascent. This route is a true test of endurance and resilience, demanding not just technical proficiency in rock and ice climbing, but also the physical stamina to sustain the effort, and the mental fortitude to keep fear and fatigue at bay.
The route encompasses sections of compact rock, interspersed with fields of steep, hard ice, and mixed terrain. Climbers must negotiate difficult passages such as the “Schmidt dihedral” and the “Spider”, a notorious ice field that forms the crux of the climb. As one ascends, the exposure becomes more pronounced, instilling a sense of raw vulnerability against the immensity of the mountain.
Only in the most optimal weather conditions should this route be attempted. Even then, the North Face exacts a heavy toll on those who dare to venture up its daunting incline. However, for the select few who succeed, the reward is a sense of accomplishment that is unparalleled in the world of mountaineering. The North Face is not just a route, but a litmus test for climbers to measure their abilities against the might of one of the world’s most formidable peaks.
In the broader context of mountaineering history, the North Face of the Matterhorn is more than a mere climbing route. It is an integral part of the mythos of the Matterhorn, a testament to the mountain’s eternal allure and its uncompromising demand for the very best from those who seek to conquer its heights. The route’s legacy, combined with the sheer difficulty of the climb, ensures its status as an enduring symbol of alpine climbing’s ultimate challenges.
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In conclusion, the Matterhorn stands not just as an awe-inspiring natural marvel, but as a complex tapestry of climbing routes, each presenting its unique allure and challenges. Its steep faces and pointed ridges beckon climbers from all around the globe, each route a testament to the versatility and ever-changing nature of this iconic mountain. From the moderate yet highly popular Hörnli Ridge to the daunting extremity of the North Face, the Matterhorn offers a range of options suited to varying levels of mountaineering expertise.
Yet, it’s crucial for any climber – novice or seasoned – to understand the demands and risks inherent to each route. The Matterhorn does not yield its summit lightly, and the price of underestimation can be dire. The mountain’s capricious weather can quickly turn an enjoyable climb into a perilous ordeal, and the high altitude only amplifies the physical and mental demands of the ascent. The decision to tackle any of these routes must be predicated upon an honest evaluation of one’s skills, thorough preparation, and the readiness to respond effectively to potential emergencies.
Preparation should encompass physical training to endure the rigors of the climb, technical mastery of required climbing skills, and acclimatization to high altitudes. Equally important is acquiring an in-depth knowledge about the chosen route and the mountain’s local weather conditions. It’s advisable to seek local guides’ expertise or engage in climbing programs specifically designed for the Matterhorn ascent.
But for all its challenges, a successful ascent of the Matterhorn is an experience like no other. Conquering one of its routes is a feat of human endurance and spirit, offering rewards that extend far beyond the breathtaking vistas from its summit. It is about the journey as much as the destination, each step etching unforgettable memories of struggles and triumphs, eternally binding the climber to this majestic mountain.
Ultimately, climbing the Matterhorn is a dance with nature at its most raw and untamed. The mountain remains an enduring symbol of the boundless human spirit’s aspiration to reach higher, strive harder, and face the seemingly insurmountable. It stands as an eternal testament to our desire to venture beyond our limitations, to experience the thrill of adventure, and to witness the sublime beauty of our world from its lofty heights.
Freesolo staff writers collaboratively researched, wrote, and edited this article. See more about this talented team at “About Us”.
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